3D printable ball gag

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3D printable ball gag

Unread postby xhr92 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:37 pm

Hello everyone, and sorry if I am posting this in the wrong place.

I designed a 3D printable ball gag model and, after having tested that it works beautifully, would like to share it with the community. Diameters go from 44 to 60 millimeters, and it is 3mm thick (plenty strong when printed in ABS, I cannot break it with my teeth). The holes are 8mm in diameter and allow passing a strap through and breathing.

gags.png


Here is the 52mm version, straight off the printer (I did some slight sanding of some artifacts).
ballgag1.jpg


Here is the assembled gag. I glued the two halves together with acetone, then smoothed all of it in an acetone vapor bath for 5 hours, for extra strength and smooth finish.
ballgag2.jpg


For the strap, I use an old "flat-style" shoelace. It works but it's not perfect. I am open to better suggestions!

Because I can only upload 3 files per post, here is a zip with all the STL files: https://anonfile.com/j4weWbe7b4/stls.zip
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Re: 3D printable ball gag

Unread postby MT1659 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:05 am

You can always use photo sharing websites like Flickr for example, and link to them via a url. Even if they're not embedded in the post.
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Re: 3D printable ball gag

Unread postby boundBinder » Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:34 am

You're going to want to bathe that in some sort of food-safe coating even if you're using PLA, so that you don't end up poisoning yourself on chemicals, or making yourself sick. 3d prints have innumerable pits that matter can get trapped in, and breed bacteria.

What percentage of infill did you use? I printed a (different)gag, myself, at 30% and bit right through it.
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Re: 3D printable ball gag

Unread postby xhr92 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:36 pm

boundBinder wrote:You're going to want to bathe that in some sort of food-safe coating even if you're using PLA, so that you don't end up poisoning yourself on chemicals, or making yourself sick. 3d prints have innumerable pits that matter can get trapped in, and breed bacteria.


The surface is completely smooth, there are no ridges or pores. Acetone smoothing literally melts the surface, fusing the layers together. As far as food safety goes, I don't expect any kind of contaminants leaking out, as it only happens at high temperatures (hot food or liquids, for instance).

I would not recommend PLA for any part supposed to take some stress, especially near the body, since it creates many sharp edges when it fails and breaks. ABS, while being a stronger material, will also craze a lot before it snaps.

boundBinder wrote:What percentage of infill did you use? I printed a (different)gag, myself, at 30% and bit right through it.


The piece is hollow, 3 millimetres thick. It's all perimeters until the very top, infill matters very little. As far as strength goes, the piece supports the full weight of my body when I stand on it just fine. For my particular print I used 3 perimeters with a .4mm extrusion width, and 6 top/bottom layers at .1mm layer height.
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Re: 3D printable ball gag

Unread postby boundBinder » Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:33 pm

xhr92 wrote:The piece is hollow, 3 millimetres thick. It's all perimeters until the very top, infill matters very little. As far as strength goes, the piece supports the full weight of my body when I stand on it just fine. For my particular print I used 3 perimeters with a .4mm extrusion width, and 6 top/bottom layers at .1mm layer height.


Thank you for the information. :) I guess I need to try printing mine with ABS, then. Is it true that you shouldn't be in the same room as a printer printing ABS? I read that the process releases fumes that are toxic.
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Re: 3D printable ball gag

Unread postby xhr92 » Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:41 pm

It does have a nasty smell for sure, not something you want to breathe for a long time. Because ABS tends to warp a lot during printing, you will want to enclose the printer as much as possible, which has the side effect of also keeping the sasty smell out of reach. I run my printer in the closet and I close it (and seal the door to avoid any kind of draft) when printing. I monitor the print with a webcam acting as an IP camera. When the piece is done printing, let it cool slowly on its own, any kind of sudden temperature change can be enough to warp or delaminate a print that's still hot.
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